Abstract: Using water as the extracting agent, the dyes extracted from quercus acutissima via the ultrasonic extraction method shell are used on linen fabric. The extraction process of dyes and the direct dyeing process of linen fabrics with quercus autissima shell were optimized by single-factor method and orthogonal experiment method, and the influence of mordant on the color fastness of dyed fabrics was studied. Results indicated that the optimized extraction process is as follows: the ratio of material to liquor was 1:20 and then extracted at 80 ℃ for 30 min. And when the pH value is 4, the bath ratio is 1:30, dyeing 40 min at 80 ℃ is the optimized dyeing process. Ferrous sulfate is used as a mordant for pre-mordant dyeing, and the dyed linen fabric has better color fastness.

Key words: quercus acutissima shell; natural dyes; dyeing; extraction; ferrous sulfate